Italy, part IX - Mount Vesuvius (i)

Rarely if ever do I select a sunrise photo for the cover, but in this case I feel compelled to. The Bay of Naples on my way down from Mt. Vesuvius

It seems ironically fitting to start the New Year off with an entry about Mount Vesuvius. I asked the guys how long Vesuvius had taken them, and they'd told me to leave at least 3 hours for it - ("bus there takes about an hour, climbing up is half an hour but then you walk around taking pictures and enjoying the view, and it's another half hour down and another hour to the train station by bus") so it was time for me to bade adieu to them for the time being. They had gone there the previous day from Ercolano train station (about 30 mins before the Pompei stop - and no I haven't missed the i, it was called Pompei Scavi) however Vesuvius proper is about an hour from most of the train stations in the area, so it didn't really matter.

I've talked so much about the Circumvesuviano and greater Napoli train network at this point that it would be disingenuous to not include a map of the train lines, so here's the most relevant one I can find. (source) Everyone who visits this area will have to refer to this map at some point.

After I had said goodbye to the guys and found the exit, I went to the tourist centre to enquire about bus fares and times to Vesuvius, and to see if it were possible to buy the bus tickets beforehand as it's usually cheaper that way. They were kind enough to provide me with all the information I needed, as well as giving me a bus schedule. I say kind enough because I have run into my fair share of unhelpful information centre staff who spoke bad English, and were unable to answer the simplest of questions. I went off to catch the bus, which by a happy coincidence had just arrived, and about 5 minutes later the driver took off.

The bus ride to up Vesuvius was marvellous. I would recommend it just for the bus ride alone. It was hard to get any good pictures so you'll just have to take my word for it, but watching the the Napoli metropolitan area gradually fall away beneath us into the Bay of Naples, took my breath away. I think everyone on the bus felt the same way. We were all slightly sorry to get off when we arrived at the Vesuvius stop. The moment we exited the bus, I stopped to put on my sweater, and zipped up my coat - it was markedly chillier up here than down in Pompeii, and damper, too.

Tickets to climb up to the volcano crater had to be bought at a ticket booth, so I got my ticket, then walked about ten minutes to the entrance and showed it to the amiable ticket man (there were no fancy turnstiles, just a wooden barrier and an elderly Italiano), who reminded me to be back by 3.30 pm at the latest, as the park would be closed by then. I thanked him, and went off with gusto.

I think the English guys were pulling my leg a bit because it took me about 45 minutes to get up there, and I'm reasonably fit, and if the morning in Pompeii was anything to go by, the three of them aren't exactly the hikers of the century. The climb up was surprisingly steep and everyone going up was struggling. A lot of the people had two walking sticks with them, and these were young people like me, people in their twenties who should have been in peak physical condition. For the most part, there was no path, just a well-trodden dirt path, which I imagine must be treacherous in rainy weather. It was an extremely strenuous workout, and by the time I'd gotten to the top, I'd taken off my jersey and hoodie again.

The first thing I saw was the crater, and when I saw it all my tiredness fell away from me, and I stood there for a bit, taking it all in, and memorising all the details. It was a bit smaller than I'd expected it to be, but it was still very definitely active - there was an ostensible smell of sulphur thick in the air, and smoke was billowing from crevasses and faults in the crater. I watched it for quite awhile before turning, and making my way further up, upon which I was greeted by a magnificent view of the Bay of Naples. It was one of those travel moments where a voice inside your head says "Ah," and it's as if a great weight has been lifted off your shoulders.

And below us, the Bay of Naples and the greater Napoli metropolitan area. The English guys had told me that the view here was worth its weight in gold, and they weren't wrong. Pictures can't do it justice.

When it seems, all your dreams, come alive..

Smoke rising lustily from the crater of Vesuvius

The Bay of Naples

On my way down from the volcano. It was one of those surreal moments where you look out in wonder and question the meaning of life - why would I subjugate myself to months of tedium at a 9-5 job, when I could be out here, enjoying all the beauty the world has to offer?